5 skincare products you don’t really need

Toners

If your skincare routine goes something like ‘cleanse, tone, moisturise’, this piece of advice from Wellington dermatologist Dr Jennifer Taylor will be a welcome money-saver.

She says you can probably skip the toning step. Dr Taylor said toners were developed as a follow-up step to cleansing in the old days. Back then, cleansers contained alkaline soaps that left residue on the skin and had a high pH, which could cause irritation, dryness and breakouts.

“Toners were therefore used to dissolve and remove soap residue and balance skin pH after cleansing with these soaps. They often do this by containing variable amounts of alcohol as solvent.”

Dr Taylor said the alcohol in toner is an astringent, which gives skin a clean, tight feeling and could make pores look smaller temporarily, but also it’s drying out the skin.

“Nowadays, toners are not necessary in skincare routines as good cleansers are formulated with a more balanced pH and are generally effective at removing residue on the skin.”

If you have dry, sensitive skin or eczema-prone skin, toners could make skin drier and cause a burning and stinging feeling, Dr Taylor said. But some are formulated with ingredients that may help with certain skin concerns such as moisturising ingredients or alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs).

“The bottom line is, they’re usually unnecessary but are an optional addition to a skincare routine.”

Sunscreen with a very high SPF

Hawke’s Bay-based Dr Juber Hafiji is a skin cancer surgeon so it goes without saying, he thinks we should be wearing sunscreen every day. But he said it’s not all about buying the sunscreen with the highest SPF you can find.

SPF stands for sun protection factor. The higher the SPF, the greater the protection from UV radiation. But once it gets above SPF50+, the additional protection is very small provided the correct amount is applied.

“Many people think that a sunscreen with SPF100 provides double the protection of a sunscreen with SPF50 – this isn’t the case,” Dr Hafiji said. “The reality is that a jump from 50 to 100 SPF only provides a marginal increase in sun protection. This can give a false sense of security to some that this is a free ticket to stay out in the sun longer.”

Dr Hafiji said he would choose a minimum of SPF50 sunscreen. “It blocks 98% of the ultraviolet light and therefore should provide good protection. In comparison, SPF15 blocks around 93% and SPF100 blocks 99%. Unfortunately, because people don’t apply enough sunscreen, they are often not getting the labelled protection.”

Rather than spending more to compensate and getting a higher SPF, he said we should be focusing on applying sunscreen regularly (every two hours and after swimming or sweating), and using enough.

In September, sunscreens became regulated and will now have to meet the Australian and New Zealand sunscreen standard. Under the standard, the highest label claim allowed is SPF50+. Products imported before 3 March last year may still carry higher SPF claims and have until September this year to comply.

Expensive cleansers

Auckland dermatologist Dr David Lim wants us all using a cleanser but said most people can get away with just using a very basic soap-free cleanser that doesn’t cost a lot.

“My issue isn’t really with cleansers per se, but for most it’s just a waste to spend a lot on cleansers,” he said.

Cleansing is important because we need to remove dirt, excess sebum, oil and make-up. “Many of the substances that we are attempting to clean off our skin are not water soluble, so attempting to use water to rinse our skin simply won’t work.”

Cleansers contain ingredients such as emulsifiers and surfactants to help remove substances from the skin so they can be washed away. But don’t be tempted to reach for a bar of soap, either: “Soaps are generally quite drying and can cause irritation and contribute to flares of eczema.”

If you love a luxurious cleanser though, then Dr Lim said go for it. However, people should be aware that many ingredients, especially botanicals, have been reported to cause irritation and allergic reactions, such as contact dermatitis. So while these ingredients may sound nice, there is a risk of harm.

“Some people do derive other real benefits – such as relaxation and a sense of wellbeing from nice products. But a simple, soap-free cleanser is adequate for washing the skin.”

Whitening creams

Dr Peggy Chen, a New Plymouth dermatologist, said we should give skin-whitening creams a wide berth. They’re marketed as being able to reduce pigmentations from acne, sunspots and age spots, and even the overall colour of your skin. “Each year there are newer and more products available to consumers.”

But Dr Chen said sometimes they contain ingredients they shouldn’t. Some have been pulled from shelves for containing hydroquinone – a skin-lightening agent that’s a prescription-only medicine in New Zealand. Dr Chen said it’s effective but when used inappropriately can cause ochronosis, which is a blue-black or grey-blue pigmentation that can be difficult to reverse.

Steroids can also be found in over-the-counter skin lightening creams from overseas, she said.

“Topical steroids used inappropriately can have detrimental effects on the skin such as unsightly thinning of the skin, fragility, easy bruising, stretch marks and depigmentation – bright white patches. These changes are often permanent and cause a lot of distress in those that develop them,” Dr Chen said.

“Because of the target customers, many of these creams are sourced from countries with less rigorous regulations. Sometimes strong steroids are included in skin whitening creams without being declared on the labelling.”

Plenty of big brands also market whitening creams and Dr Chen said the majority contain acids such as salicylic and azelaic acids, which can irritate sensitive skin. “A lot of the newer skin lightening products are now promoting natural ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamide, kojic acid, and bakuchiol with variable results, so caution should be exercised.”

Face wipes

Palmerston North dermatologist Dr Louise Reiche thinks it’s time to put down the face wipes – for the sake of our skin, wallet and planet. She said they often contain fragrances, which can cause irritation, as well as preservatives.

Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is a common one in face wipes and having an allergy to it is extremely common. It has been banned from leave-on products in Europe since 2015 and the amount allowed in rinse-off products was lowered.

“Face wipes, as well as baby wipes and hand wipes, also cause damage to our waterways because they don’t break down easily in the environment,” Dr Reiche said.

They can also cause plumbing problems if flushed down the loo as they don’t break down like toilet paper does.

Using a cleanser on your face and washing it off with a wet flannel doesn’t take much more effort, Dr Reiche said, and is friendlier for both your finances and the environment.