How to choose the best lawnmower

Lawnmower types

Before diving into our test database, consider the pros and cons of each type. This will help you choose the right model for your lawn and budget.

Petrol mowers

Pros

• Unlimited run time if you have fuel available
• Most are excellent at cutting long grass and tough weeds, even when wet
• Most can mulch and catch
• Can typically cut the grass shorter than battery-powered models

Cons

• Higher running costs
• Require regular engine maintenance (see the note below)
• Most are heavy
• Noisy
• Produce fumes
• Harder to start with a pull cord

Battery-powered mowers

Pros

• The best battery mowers perform even better than petrol models in dry conditions
• Low running costs
• Minimal maintenance required
• Usually quieter than petrol models
• Most are relatively light
• Easy to start
• Their batteries can often be used in other tools

Cons

• Not as good at cutting long grass and weeds when wet
• Limited run time – most run for 20–60 minutes but some can go for 2+ hours
• Batteries usually need replacing every 3–5 years
• Can’t cut grass as short as other types

Mains-electric mowers

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Relatively low running costs
• Reliable with no engine or battery issues
• Quiet
• Light weight
• Easy to start

Cons

• Not as good at cutting long grass and weeds when wet
• Most can’t mulch (cut or catch only), but some cut finely and recirculate the clippings through the blades, giving a pseudo-mulching effect
• Power cord limits range (not suited to large yards)
• Power cord makes mowing more awkward than cordless models

We haven’t recently tested any mains-electric lawnmowers, but we continue to monitor the market. The electric models we previously tested didn’t perform as well as the battery-powered and petrol units.

Push mowers

Pros

• Inexpensive
• No running costs – no power source or fuel required
• Very low maintenance
• Can cut grass relatively short
• Ultralight
• Almost silent
• Compact

Cons

• Won’t cut long grass – need to mow frequently
• Not suited to large or sloping sections

Lawnmower features

Mulch and catch or catcher only?

We test plenty of catcher only models, but mulch and catch mowers are the most versatile. They have a specially shaped cutting blade and a plug for the catcher chute.

With the catcher attached, mulch and catch mowers work as a conventional catcher only mower. With the catcher removed and the mulch plug inserted, the clippings are spun under the body and chopped up further by the blade. They are then blown down into the lawn, leaving a smoothly mown surface.

For successful mulching, the grass can’t be too short or too long. Cut too short and there won’t be a carpet of grass for the mulch to sink into and decompose. Left too long (more than 25mm) and the mulch will clump on the lawn, especially if the grass is wet.

Easy push

Ball-bearing wheels make pushing easier. Self-propelled models are very easy to push, but they’re more expensive too. They can usually both mulch and catch.

Body (chassis) material

Alloy bodies are more expensive than others. Alloy is corrosion resistant and likely to last longer in damp conditions – although it won’t last as well in sandy areas because sand wears away the aluminium.

Steel is cheaper but will rust unless cleaned and dried after every use. However, it’ll only dent if bumped into a large rock, whereas an alloy body can crack.

Plastic is lightweight and doesn't corrode, but it may not last as well if regularly being hit with stones and other debris. A plastic body is more suitable for well-tended lawns where there’s minimal chance of contact with stones and rocks.

Handle

A turned-up handle is usually easiest to use. Being able to adjust its height is also an advantage. The handle should fold easily for storage.

Throttle control

The throttle control can be on a mower’s handlebar, lower down on one of the handle struts or on the engine housing. It’s more convenient located on the handlebar and shouldn't be stiff to operate

Cutting height

Look for a wide range of cutting heights. The best models are easy to adjust, with one lever acting on all four wheels at once. Check our test results, to see which mowers have the easiest cutting height adjustment.

Catcher material

Catchers can be either solid plastic or partly mesh. Rigid plastic is heavier, but stronger than the mesh type, which can also allow dust to blow over the user. The catcher should have two handles, one for carrying and the other for emptying. It should be easy to remove and replace.

Starter cord (petrol mowers)

The starter cord of some mowers is on the engine casing, requiring a full body pull. Others are on the handle. Starter cords on the upper part of the handle limit your pulling action more than those placed further down. Left-handers may find it harder to use a starter cord on the handle. Before you buy a model with a starter cord, ask to try it out in the shop.

Wash port

The deck (underbody) of some models can be rinsed with water. A wash port makes the job easy. Look for a hole on top of the body, designed to connect a hose.

Noise

There aren’t any quiet petrol mowers, but some are noisier than others. Other mower types are usually quieter. Check our test results to compare models – we measure noise at the user’s ear position. We also make note if there’s significant handle vibration, which can be uncomfortable over extended periods.

Check our test results to see which lawnmowers have the features you want.

Buying a secondhand lawnmower

You might save money buying secondhand, but there are some things to check first:

• Type of mower: Consider the pros and cons of the different types. Some are easier to use and maintain but may not be suitable for large yards or long grass. The battery in a battery model may need to be replaced sooner than when buying new – batteries lose capacity through use and time. Check the availability and price of a replacement.
• Brand: Check the brand's reliability and satisfaction ratings for lawnmowers. For petrol models, also check the brand of the motor and give your local repair shop a call to make sure they can fix it if needed.
• Model: Check our lawnmowers test results for both current and discontinued models to see how the mower performed in testing. Our discontinued models go back several years. While we can’t test every mower, if the model you’re looking at was widely available when it entered the New Zealand market, there’s a good chance we’ve tested it.
• Features: Check whether the mower has the features you want and make sure it’ll be easy for you to use.
• Condition: Does the mower look clean and tidy? Check the body and all components for cracks, dings or rust that’ll show it’s had a hard life. Don’t worry about blade sharpness – they can be sharpened or replaced cheaply. If the handles, wheels, throttle and any switches look worn out, make sure you can find spare parts.
• Age and usage: Ask the seller how old the mower is and how often it’s been used. Has the seller owned it from new? Has it ever been used commercially? Has it been stored indoors or left outside? Is the user manual available?
• Cleaning, maintenance and repair history: Ask about the mower’s history. Has it been cleaned regularly? Has it been maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule? That’s particularly important for petrol mowers, which need regular servicing much like a petrol vehicle.
• Price and guarantee: Compare the mower’s asking price with the prices of similar mowers on the market. Don’t be afraid to negotiate. Note: If you buy from a secondhand dealer (including those listed as “in trade” on Trade Me) and find the mower is faulty, you're protected by the Consumer Guarantees Act. If you buy privately, you're not.
• Start it:  Ask if you can start the mower. The engine should start easily and run smoothly without unusual noises – and without excessive smoke, in the case of petrol models.